Archived Ride UK
Tech Articles
- Wheel Fiddling
- Chain Tension
- Chain
- How Tight is Tight?
- Isn’t that bike a bit small for you mate?
- Bent Frame Spotting
- Click Click Click
- Living in a Material World…
- Handlebars
- Bottom Brackets AGAIN!!!
- Flying Tonight?
- Bottom Bracket Compendium
- Steering Geometry
- Three Piece Crank Fitting
- They’re playing R-Tune… (groan)
- What the hell is a hidden headset?
- Avoid bicycle maintenance bloodlust
- Stretching
- Lard inspired quest for reliability and tranquility
- Wheel Truing
- Fits
- Super Small Gearing
- Headsets
- Brakes
- Frame Design Details
- Dropouts
- Gearing
- Euro/USA Bottom Brackets
Documents
- Ratchet Hub: Instruction Manual (updated July 2010)
Frequently Asked Questions
- Q. Can I get some stickers please?
A. USA residents can get G-Sport stickers through Odyssey by sending them a self-addressed stamped envelope and letting them know you’d like some G-Sport stickers. International requests can be fulfilled by our distributors. - Q. Why are the hubs so big?
A. Big things are generally stronger than little things, when you hollow out a big thing it can often also be lighter than something smaller. So although our hubs are big on the outside there is a lot of air inside. Having a big axle and big bearings means that the hub ends up pretty big overall, but it also ends up strong, smooth and light. There is also no shortage of space inside a wheel so why not make the most of it. So quit looking at the middle of your wheels while you ride and concentrate on how fast you are going. - Q. How long do the bearings last?
A. If you look after the bike then there is no reason that the bearings shouldn’t last almost indefinitely. I get plenty of emails from owners of hubs that are 5 or even 10 years old looking for their first set of replacements. Even less well looked after it is very unusual for a set of hub bearings to last less than 2 years. Obviously if you set out to destroy them and ride through rivers etc and wash all the lube out then they wont last as long, but they will always outlast other hubs. - Q. I wanted to buy a limited edition colour part, but I left it too late and missed out. Can I buy the colour I want direct or get a special order?
A. Sorry, but the answer is no. The limited edition runs are just that, limited. You can check round bike shops for old stock or scour Ebay or get creative with some spray paint but when they are gone, they are gone. - Q. Why dont G-Sport make parts other than wheel stuff?
A. G-Sport is focused on wheel parts because wheels are so important to a bike, just as important as a frame. I do work on other parts under the Odyssey brand.
George French Q&A
Do you have a question for George? Read through the list of reader submitted questions below and if your question still isn’t answered, fill out the form at the bottom.
I have a question, what can I do?
There are lots of ways to get in touch. You can email or phone or ask a question here just like this one. If you ask the question here then we will probably respond here, so if you think the question you are asking is something other people might want to know the answer to, then doing it here would be great so that an archive of questions can build up for people to check. If your question is urgent or specific to you then phone or email is a better bet.
hey hi george,i had alot of toubles with the freecoasters set ups like the driver bearings and the axles that always are common the trouble points i guess,so my question is about the g-sport freecoaster hub,it really comes out someday? or you guys just quit about making it?
i like alot the g sport stuff and i think that if you gonna make that kind of hub it gonna be so strong and so legit and i can assure,it would be the best freecoaster ever made so please if you got the time ill be so pleased to get some news about it.
and im wondering too,if g-sport is a wheel company,why you dont make tires or tubes ?
that couple are essential in a wheel too,maybe you can develop a great tube with function or with some technology i dont know but it would be great too.
thanks alot for the time,your products are so legit and cute!!
and ill be ridin it ever i can!!
Hi David, thanks for the appreciation. The freecoaster has been in the works for a long time now, and unfortunately it isn’t likely to come out anytime soon. It is still an active project and we haven’t abandoned it, but progress can be very slow with something so new. We have had working prototypes, but the level of complexity and user-unfriendly-ness was way too high. So the emphasis has been on simplifying and improving function, this doesnt account for all the time that has gone by, there have been delays due to tooling issues, heat-treatment, changing factories and simply trying to get lots of other projects out the door. But we are still working on it.
You have written a Tech Article on stretching and its importance in BMX. The article definitely proved that it is something all too commonly overlooked. Unfortunately though, the average BMXer has very limited access to accurate information on how to properly stretch, forget which stretches are good for BMX. Without this direction, the chances of the inspiration you cause being actualized are slim. I was hoping you might be interested in going a bit more in depth on the topic here on your new site. Cheers!
Glad that some of the tech columns are of interest. The one on stretching is one that I often get asked to elaborate on, but I really don’t feel qualified to give general advice, and I also honestly believe that general advice can do as much harm as good. My advice will always have to be to seek one-to-one help from an expert who can diagnose your individual situation and advise you on how best to improve your flexibility based on your individual physiology. Even if you feel you have no outstanding problems and could benefit from general advice on flexibility you are much better off getting that advice from a physiotherapist who doesn’t know much about BMX, than a BMXer who doesn’t know much about physiotherapy.
Hi George
I’m a fan of your articles, really like to get some tech tips and explanations, i always kept my bike as dialed-in as possible and make sure that everything works well.
Recently i bought Twombolts, and a 15/16″ sprocket to fit them. but the sprocket does not have a tight fit on the axle, looks like there is about 0,3mm diameter difference and it causes my sprocket to wobble a little bit, and to be honest with you it annoys me a little bit. I managed to cut a stripe from a pop can to fit around the spindle where the sprocket sits, and after few minutes i managed to fit the sprocket in place. It feels tight now, but what conserns me is the alumium “shim/spacer” itself. Will the soft alumium wear out in that particular place ? I tried to fit a steel shim from a can, but I gave up after 10 minutes of fitting it in and cutting – i couldnt get it in place.
Looking forward for some in-depth explanatory ;)
Robert
Hi Robert,
It sounds like something is out of tolerance, but without seeing it I cant say for sure what. Your best bet is to take it to your local bike shop or find someone with a decent calliper to measure both parts and work out what is to blame. Obviously if it is the crank then it would be covered under warranty without question, however I think it very unlikely.
Using the shim is unlikely to be very satisfactory and it will quickly mark the sprocket up and possibly damage the hole which will make it impossible to warranty with whoever made it.
I hope this helps.
George
Hi George, I am just wondering if the marmoset is still in production in gold as i haven’t come across one in gold for a while now. If not ill settle for one in black (id rather have g-sport in a colour i dont want than no g-sport atall) Thankyou for your time. Michael.
Yes, gold is a standard colour (not limited edition) so it should always be available. Try your distributor for help (IMG for the UK) if you cant find it.
George
so my rachet hub driver dose not go in all the way and if i ride my chain tight it makes it hard to pedal and a sorta grinding noise ,so what should i do ?
Sorry I cant make a diagnosis from that description, it sounds like maybe something is assembled in the wrong order. Please check the manual and email me with photos if you cant figure it out and I will try to talk it through with you.
George
Yo George, I am wondering what to do now that i switched my ratchet hub the LHD and the cog driver is moving in and out of the hub, when i pedal my cranks forwards and backwards. I talked to another kid just yesterday and he has the same problem. When i put the hub back together i went on the gsport websight and looked at the pictures and steps on how to do it. I am not sure but i think its because the cone washer that is holding the cog in at the end of the axle is chewed up and now thinner. Please get back to me soon because now im forced to ride my old freecoaster wheel that sucks! im never buying one again, unless you guys come up with a freecoaster that had the same body as the ratchet with the hub gaured specialy made for it and lasted longer than a normal freecoaster. Thank you. Austin
It sounds like the retaining ring may have come out of the back of the driver. You should be able to re-fit it and fix the issue. If this doesn’t do the job please email me and include photos if possible.
George
are the ribcage rims painted black or black anodized?
They are HARD anodised. This is much tougher and more durable than the standard “decorative” anodising that most companies use.
Hello George!
I am a big fan of your designs and I am running your 48 spoke from hub/ rim along with a 48 on the rear (with a freecoaster) on my flat bike. The front hub is my second one because I loved the first one so much!
The bearings are popping though, which I am thinking is a defective bearing, since my other hub is a pre-Ody version and is still smooth as butter. These things happen.
So can I go to a local bearing supplier to get a replacement? If so, what should I ask for? Just so I make sure to get a good one.
~J
All the 48 hubs since about 1998 have used standard 6904 bearings. Ask for 2RS or the equivilent to get little rubber lip seals like those on the originals or you will probably get ones with just metal shields that arent as good at keeping dirt out.
What about a ceramic bearing? Any benefit to using ceramic vs. steal? Thanks for getting back so quick!
~J
Ceramic bearings are mostly used in areas where there is a very corrosive environment, or where magnetism or electricity are involved, or at high temperatures or high speeds, bicycles dont really encounter any of these conditions so there is very little reason to spend so much on bearings…
planning on an up date of the rachet anytime soon?
We have some minor running changes that we plan to make in terms of seals and clearances etc. but nothing major. Most of the slight changes we are considering will be changes that could potentially be applied to existing hubs by the owner as upgrades if desired. We dont tend to replace every product every couple of years just for the sake of it, we prefer to make minor tweaks and improvements then keep the product around for a long time. If you look at say the Marmoset hub, it first came out in the late 90′s and has had only minor changes since then (changing the flange spacing in the late 90′s on the second or third batches; changing the material to 7075 in 2005 and making the 17mm hex custom bolts also around then), to the point where we have a hub that is a classic. The Ratchet is a couple of years old now, and we have already made minor changes (introducing 9 tooth driver; changing arrangement of spacers on 10 tooth driver to reduce part count; introducing Ratchet guard), where we think that they add features that people want or improve function, and we will continue to refine things along the road, but ultimately the hub provides things that no other hub can (unparalleled axle strength, unparalleled bearing performance, etc) and is here for a good many years to come, with everything that that involves (long term spare part availability, warranty and service etc).
George
hey G, what is the best way to remove an aluminum 3/8 axle from a ratchet? i pulled the driver out, and tried tapping on the axle, but it wont budge. is there something else i should try?
Please check with the online manual if you haven’t already, removing the aluminium axle should be no different to removing the steel one. If this doesnt help please email.
George
Hello George, I got the ratchet hub about a month ago and it’s amazing but now I see you can change out the Axel to a 3/8 aluminum axel, compaired to the 14mm axel how strong is the 3/8 aluminum axel I was also wondering I have the Sunday funday 2 frame how well would the 3/8 bolts hold up in he drop outs and lastly I’m stumped on weather to get the g-sport marmoset front hub or the odyssey vandero 2 hub I ride pretty hard street trails and park which would be better.
Nick
The aluminium axle is about 70% the strength of the steel one, but still plenty strong enough for even the harshest street riding, however the bolts are not as indestructible as the 14mm ones so especially on thin dropouts that is a consideration. However this needs to be kept in perspective and we are still talking about an overall setup that is considerably stronger than anything else that is available. You would obviously have the slight inconvenience of having to run the adaptor to use this axle on the Funday’s 14mm slots but other than that it should all be very good.
The Marmoset is likely to be a better bet for you.
George
Oh also does g-sport make an aluminum axel with 14mm bolts I also saw something about a ti axel coming out will this one be 3/8 or will it have 14mm bolts
No, the aluminium axle only comes with 3/8″ bolts. We are prototyping a Titanium axle and that DOES use the 14mm bolts.
Can I turn my sprocket around to get more life out of it?
With most sprockets yes. However it wont give you much extra time and will likely run pretty poorly because the chain will have worn too.
Does G-Sport sell small replacement parts for the ratchet hub? I need a nylon bushing for my 9t driver.
Jesse
Yes. Every single part should be available as a spare. Please contact your distributor.
Hi George. I have a six year old Monkey hub, still going strong… Any plans to make an 11 or 12t driver for the Ratchet? Also will you be making spare drivers available, as I should think the rest of the hub will far outlast the driver? Thanks!
Glad to hear the Monkey is still a runner, they do tend to last a very long time.
We dont have any firm plans for larger drivers right now because the shops and distributors aren’t asking for them right now. If enough people hassle their distributors for them then it could happen. Spare 9 and 10 tooth drivers are already available, again just contact your distributor and they should be able to help.
George
Are the hex nipples about the same or better than 7075 nipples that come in the normal shape?
Substantially better. The hex shape leaves more material than the square so that makes it stronger, the taper hex tightens right up to a near perfect fit as you slide the key down, so you can get much more torque on them (and so higher spoke tension) without risking deforming the shape which ultimately leads to breakage.
Hello George!
I was searching the Patent Archive for some work stuff, and my mind wandered, and I came across your freecoaster patent. Very nice – get it done!!. Anyway, hope things going well. All this stuff looks great!
Steff
Hello George, I Have a Serous Problem with the Ratchet Hub. My driver Seems to be recessed WAY to deep into the hub,To the point of which a tiny bit of metal has scraped off the Drive side of the Hub because of the chain,also the Diver isn’t staying put when it’s put in it moves in and out relativity freely ,While on my bike. Please help me out here I have no idea what to do,I’ve already checked the owners manual to check thats its assembled properly, I’ve checked to make sure the bearings aren’t blown, and have brought it to my local shop, but the mechanic said to just send it in for warranty,I’d rather not seeing as this is my only month I have left to ride till next season.
It definitely sounds like something isnt assembled correctly in the driver. Please e.mail me some photos and let me know some more details like what size driver it is and what country you are in and hopefully I can get it all sorted for you.
Hey George, I am looking into building a set of gsport wheels for my new Fly. I run Profile cranks and cant seem to get my chain alinement right on with my current hub (a stolen roulette). If i run two spacers it throws the chain completely out of line but if i only run one spacer my crank arm is too close to the chain stay for comfort. Will I have this problem with a ratchet hub and if so any tips to help it?
Thanks, Chris
It sounds like your problem is with the cranks or frame rather than the hub. There are lots of potential causes of this and you need to just work through them. It could be that your frame is bent, your crank arm or axle is bent or just that those components dont work well together. As a last resort you can space the sprocket away from the crank arm slightly, but this isnt ideal and you should eliminate all other possibilities first.
Hey George, i trying to relace some spokes in my ratchet hub. I had it laced four cross before and busted a bunch of spokes, all i need to know is what length of spokes i would neet to fix it???? and help would be most appreciated!
Thanks, team smoker
It will depend on whether it is a 48 or 36. For the 48 four cross is ideal and the length is 184mm (186 will work too). For a 36 I do not recommend 4-cross and have never built one so I cant be certain of the length, best bet is to measure one of the spokes you already have in place.
hey george,
is there any hub guards compatible with the marmoset besides bsd, knight and the gland??
Those are the only ones I know of.
hi george, i was just wondering, will you ever release the G-sport ribcage rims in white ?
It’s possible but nothing is scheduled right now.
are you by any chance producing a freecoaster? i’d love to get my hands on one of those, or a couple.
hey george i have a khe reverse that i cut and tapped for the gsport 3/8 bolts. my question is i have a sunday frame with the 8mm thick drop outs should i try to use an adapter that is as thick as the drop outs or would it be ok to use a thin adapter like 4mm? P.S. i ride with pegs
A thicker adaptor would be nice, but shouldn’t be necessary.
Hey George,
Do you make or plan to make a driver for race applications with a shimano type spline? We have race guys who are desperate for a hub they won’t trash in less than a year.
We dont have any plans right now, if the demand seems to be there then we could look at it though.
Yo George, ive been riding the ratchet since september 09 now september 10 is coming up, and im pretty sure i exploded my bearings, although im a little bummed im still stickin by g sport, because i am 230 lbs and ride very hard, its been an awesome hub, back to my point wat do i do about a warantee? is it possible?
Please email me more details. The bearings in both the hub-shell and driver are very highly rated and should cope with any weight of rider and any type of riding. So please email me more details like what country you are in and where you bought the hub and I am sure we can sort it out for you.
I bought a Ratchet hub on Thursday, it’s now Sunday and it is F***** already. It seems to me like the driver is engaging with the ratchet ring like it should, but, instead of turning the wheel, its slipping inside the hub shell. Warranty is of course what I will be seeking, but what happens if the replacement hub does it too? Is this a common problem?
No this isnt a common problem, but it has happened a handfull of times before. We put specific quality control procedures in place right from day one to try to prevent this possibility but we later discovered that a few hubs had somehow slipped through. Since then we have tightened everything up even further and it shouldnt happen anymore. Please do get it warrantied and please accept my sincerest apologies for the inconvenience.
What is the holdup on the GLANDS? I cant get one anywhere!
Sorry, they sold out much faster than we were expecting. New stock should be arriving in September.
Wassup dude I was wondering if and if so, how can I but a hub directly from you guys or do I have to get in from a local shop
We dont sell direct. You can buy from a local shop or at many online retailers if you prefer.
Another question -
Have you guys discontinued the ribcage and are just continuing with the rollcage?
Nope, both rims are here to stay. The Ribcage is stronger thanks to the higher strength alloy and design, and resists pinch punctures particularly well due to the increased width. The Rollcage is a more standard width and a more standard alloy, its a little lighter and a little cheaper. But both rims are very strong and thanks to the advanced design build into very strong wheels that will perform excellently for years.
I hope this helps.
Ey george , 2 weeks ago i switched my hub from right to left drive, and today i noticed a grinding noice, so i looked at the hub instruction manual, and put it all together i noticed i didn’t put my hub together the way it should , damn i fucking love the manual without it my hub would be dead, great job:D
wen will the ratchet hubs be availiable in black agian
Sometime in September, sorry I cant be more specific right now, we will post an update on the news when they come in.
yup im waiting on the Ratchet hubs to , cause no one has them stock, except for albes that has them in red and i dont have a shop near me that i could order from.
can i buy products straight off from G-Sport or by calling a number?
Nevermind i just noticed you cant buy direct, BUT is there a U.S. distributor i could call up to buy from them?
As far as I am aware distributors will not sell direct either, but if the distro has stock then any good shop should be able to order things in for you.
can u change a marmoset 3/8 axle and upgrade
to a 14mm axle ?
Sorry no.
Hey George,
I was browsing around the Dans Comp site and noticed that they had an option for 14mm Volcano bolts for the Ratchet. If I remember correctly, I E-Mailed you a while ago asking if you had plans on making them, and you said no. I’m just wondering if this happens to be a mistake on the sites behalf or did the demand for the Volcano bolts in 14mm actually increase to the point where it becomes viable to make them?
Thanks for the great parts and help,
Chris
It would appear to be a mistake on their part. We only make one 14mm thread bolt and dont even have plans for any other options right now.
two questions about the ratchet:
1. regarding truing, the manual says to add 2 extra turns to each spoke on the drive-side flange to compensate for the different flange sizes. is it 2 extra turns to that side each time around the rim or 2 extra turns just once at the end?
2. are there any drive-side guards you know of that are compatible with the ratchet? if not, any plans on making some? protection for the only real vulnerable part of that hub would be awesome.
2 extra turns will account for the asymetric flanges. Personally I would add these two extra turns towards the beginning of the tensioning process then proceed as normal.
How long should the spokes be when i lace:
Ratchet to a Rollcage, 4 cross
Marmoset to Rollcage, 4 cross
thank you for your help.
ps.
forgot mention that they are both 36
I do not recommend lacing 36′s 4cross because it can make the wheel feel a little “soggy”, I would always opt for 3cross on a 36. However, if you want to do it you will theoretically need 195mm for the Marmoset and 192mm for the Ratchet but I have never personally built either of these combos so I cant comment on how they end up.
Just one question:
Is it true, that Ratchets doesn’t go well with Shadow Halflink chains?
Yes. The pins on that chain stick out a long way past the sides of the chain and they will scratch up the edge of the hub shell. However new stock of the hubs arriving this month will have a slight modification to allow it to clear completely.
are the colliers the same on the 10mm ratchet as the 14mm one or are they different
They are the same. Only the axle and bolts change.
Will drilling & tapping my Sunday New Wave’s headtube for gyro tabs void the warranty?
Only if poor workmanship on the modification causes the failure.